5" Beginner
Cheap, durable, and easy to put together and repair
Specced out to be easy to assemble, with affordable and accessible parts and electronics that should be easy to solder. This build should be perfect to get you started in the world of FPV.
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All of the parts here link to the manufacturer’s website and use the manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP) whenever possible, it’s up to you to find them at your local store. The prices are listed in USD, before any taxes, shipping, or tariffs… good luck to our US pilots.
Motors
2207 and 2306 are the most common stator sizes you’ll see on 5” builds. A 2207 motor has a stator 22mm wide and 7mm tall, the larger the total volume, the more torque the motor has. For 6s batteries, you’ll want to stay around 1700-2000kv - the higher, the faster… just don’t go overboard or you risk frying the motors and/or the ESCs. They all have M5 prop shafts, look for M5 flanged lock nuts as spares.
TMotor have great hardware across a wide price range, the Velox series is their budget lineup which will also pop up further down this list. It holds up really well in all the testing and abuse I’ve seen, and you can add a splash of color to your build based on the kv you choose.
AxisFlying is still a relatively new brand in FPV, but their motors have become some of the best budget motors, often going on sale for even less than what’s listed here. The neutral color should go well with basically any build.
Having been around for a while, they’ve cemented themselves as a reliable option, often for the lowest price on this list. They may not be as widely available due to the III’s being out, but Emax are still making them!
FlyFishRC are a relatively new manufacturer, their first big item were the Flash series motors that quickly became popular with many bando pilots. The Sword series brings similar performance at a much lower cost.
GEPRC have been around for a while, but their motors were always either too expensive or not something I’d recommend. These have turned both of those around, they’re some of the cheapest unibell motors around while also performing well.
Frames
Most of these should have both a True X or Wide X/Squish X variant and a Deadcat variant. X frames are better for pure freestyle, deadcat frames make sure that you get props out of your camera views, making them better for cinematic shots. You can generally fit up to 5.2” props on a 5” frame, feel free to experiment with which ones feel the best for you.
A very popular entry level frame that’s been around for a while, standing the test of time. Its open source nature makes it cheap to cut wherever it’s sold, while also making it easy to get spare parts and 3D printed accessories.
The V6 brings thicker arms, a wider body, and a cam mounting system that can fit many different cameras, including DJI O4 Pro. The only downside being the action camera mounting pushing the center of gravity too far back. Great for flying without an action cam, if you need one I’d consider other options from this list.
AxisFlying mostly focused on the high end frame market for a while, that changed with the Manta 5 SE. Over its lifespan, it evolved into a really capable frame for its price, with many features sticking around from their premium options. My only complaint is that it’s hard to tag :D.
The MK4 (Mark 4) was pretty popular many years ago. Now it’s been cloned to oblivion, you shouldn’t buy one no matter how cheap it is. But you could buy one of these! It’s a much more up-to-date design with X/DC variants that can hold analog and DJI O3/O4 pro cams, it’s great for cinematic use and casual freestyle alike.
If the MK5 is meant for more casual use, the Vapor 5 should survive anything you throw at it. X and DC options with regular and O4 Pro variants make it a fairly universal tank of a frame. Might wanna watch the weight though.
DeepSpace is a very new name in FPV, but their catalog is already nothing to scoff at. The Seeker 5 is a premium frame with most of the pointless bits removed, leaving only the important stuff. That does mean that we can no longer blame the weight on redundtant plastic though.
Stacks
Only 30.5x30.5mm mounting, the smaller ones with 20x20 don’t perform very well at a budget level. We’ll be mostly sticking to STM32 F405 microcontrollers since F722 don’t offer much of an advantage while being a bit more expensive, and H743 can go even higher in price.
I only added stacks that use FCs which went through some form of developer testing, and all of the manufacturers work with the Betaflight team directly. As Betaflight rolls out the “Officially Supported” verification for more FCs, I’ll be updating this list to include them.
One of the first members in the Taker family which now spans dozens. It still holds its ground very well at a price that’s hard to beat, and you don’t really loose out on anything.
An updated version of the previous stack, adding a barometer, a beefier ESC, and 6 ESC/signal outputs. Even if it’s not necessarily kosher to do that with Betaflight on F405 nowadays, you can start to play around with some more experimental setups.
F722 might not be as much of an advantage as it once was, but there’s still a lot to like here. Massive integrated blackbox storage and Bluetooth for wireless setup, for a price that’s very close to the previous one. At the time of writing this, Bluetooth hardware inclusion was temporarily paused, but it likely brought the price even lower.
Flywoo always focused more on smaller drones, their 5” electronics were often priced too high or weren’t at a level I’d recommend. Their new lineup of white boards is solid across the line, even up to 5” and up. 8 motor outputs and a considerable amount of other IO make it a good option for exotic builds as well.
Like I wrote in the Motors section, T-Motor makes another appearance. It’s overall a very capable stack with a lot of testing behind it. What makes it interesting is the 8s rating. Realistically that means it should survive a lot better on 6s. Unrealistically… not that I’m encouraging you to go build an 8s drone as your first, butttttttt
I wanted to keep this list limited to stacks so that you don’t have to hunt down separate boards. But this is such a deal that I had to include it. I think the only reason they’re not sold as a stack is because it’d kill their other options, and I think they tried to nerf it because it was even cheaper before. With a high-end H743 MCU and a hefty ESC, these are specs you’d see well above $100.
Video Transmitters
Or VTXs in short. Due to how variable the analog video market has become, there’ll be quite a lot of them listed here so that you can hopefully find at least one in stock near you. Higher output power = higher range, but it’s not 1-1, and output power isn’t everything. A cleaner VTX at lower power will likely outrange a noisy VTX that’s blasting 2W+.
Everything here is analog, since it’s still the cheapest and most common video transmission option. But all of the frames and stacks here are digital-ready if you plan on going digital now or in the future. Just skip the analog stuff and you’ll be good to go.
TBS has been in FPV for basically as long as it’s existed, their stuff has always been some of the best. These small VTXs are mostly seen in tightly packed race quads, but 500mW of good quality video is more than enough for freestyle. Bring your own zipties and double-sided tape! Or just print a holder for it, that works too.
A slightly larger, slightly less advanced brother to the Pro32 Nano. Just because it can’t read barcodes does not make it any less useful though. You have more output power, and a connector to avoid soldering if you really don’t wanna do that. Still BYO mounting solution though.
Possibly the last VTX you’ll ever need. 3W is more than you’ll ever reasonably need, but it might come in handy if you want to try some long-range flying, or need all the penetration you can get for flying in bandos or other RF intensive areas.
Rush VTXs are also some of the best. They may be a bit harder to come by for a reasonable price nowadays, but if you do - you’re in luck. It’s pretty compact, and can be held down with the standard 20x20mm bolt pattern. It would be my personal pick for most of these setups.
The reasonable way to do long range. I don’t think there’s ever a need for more than 1.6W, I have one of these in my 8” LR rig and I had perfect video as far as I’ve been able to take it. And you still keep the 20x20 mounting for what’s otherwise a pretty sizeable VTX.
Don’t let the name deceive you. Sub250 do mostly make small sub250g drones, but they went all in for their 3.5” builds with this one. Being a pretty lowkey, nondescript black box, it should go well with any build.
With the 30.5x30.5 mounting pattern, this VTX is the biggest on this list. As long as you make sure it fits into the frame you picked out (many on this list do), you should have a solid experience without any overheating.
The specs and performance largely follow the previous two, you probably notice the main difference by looking at the photos. The name is self-explanatory, this VTX is strikingly blue. Might not fit well for all builds, but it can also really compliment the rest.
Cameras
All of the frames on this list should fit 19mm cameras, or 14mm ones with a small adapter that’s either included, or easily purchased/printed. In simple terms, TVL refers to the camera’s resolution, but that’s not a clean value when processed down to NTSC/PAL for analog. Look at review and comparison videos to find the camera that looks the best to you.
Everything here is analog, since it’s still the cheapest and most common video transmission option. But all of the frames and stacks here are digital-ready if you plan on going digital now or in the future. Just skip the analog stuff and you’ll be good to go.
The Ant cameras are really popular on smaller (2-3.5”) builds, but they hold their ground on 5” quads pretty well. With the included 19mm adapter, they can fit into basically any 5” frame here, I carry one or two of them as spares and use them in my basher quads.
The best looking analog camera IMO. They’re available everywhere, and at a decent price compared to higher-end cams. It’s said to have a higher-than-average latency… but I haven’t noticed anything on mine, it’s unlikely you would either on a first build, and for the looks it’s probably worth it.
Another popular option, some people prefer it over the Ratel 2, I tried both and still prefer the Ratel. That said though, it’s a very consistent camera, and I didn’t mind the video quality much. If you can’t find a Ratel 2, it would be my replacement pick.
The special edition of the Phoenix 2 has an improved CPU, a fancy lens hood (oddly similar to the DJI O3 that came out befor a little before), slightly larger FOV, and a tighter enclosure further preventing water/dust from getting in. All at a lower price than the original.
These were my favorite cams back in the day, now they seem almost always out of stock, or at a highly marked-up price. I’m still holding out hope that they’ll come back, or that you can possibly find a good deal on one.
BetaFPV basically only makes stuff for micros, but the C04 camera might be handy if you’re really tight on budget. The specs seem pretty decent, but you’re locked to 4:3 and have no way to change any settings. You’ll also need to source your own 19mm adapter, and watch out for the “older” C04 which was a camera + VTX combo!
Receivers
All ELRS. If you’re building a new quad as a beginner, anything else doesn’t make sense. All of these are officially supported, which means that they passed official developer testing, and they have firmware targets available in ELRS Configurator. Also, glossary for the listings here:
- “2.4GHz” - runs on one channel in one frequency band. The most common operational mode.
- “2.4GHz + 2.4GHz” - two channels at the same time in one frequency band. In ELRS terms, it’s called Gemini.
- “2.4GHz/900MHz” - one channel, but you can pick between 2.4GHz and 900MHz if needed.
- “2.4GHz + 900MHz” - two channels, each one on a different band. Called “Gemini Xrossband (GemX)“.
Radiomaster is likely the best RC manufacturer (at least for FPV quads), IMO they set the baseline for everything ELRS nowadays. The RP1 is small and light, but still has big soldering pads and antennas that are my personal favorite, given their nice recess for a ziptie.
By all means, a decent upgrade over the RP1, with a newer Espressif MCU, the top-of-the-line LR1121, higher telemetry output power, and more. Yet somehow it’s cheaper. No clue how they managed that, but it’s by far the most flexible option at this price point.
The smaller variant of the RP4TD, this receiver keeps the same true diversity (Gemini) setup, at a smaller footprint. The only “compromise” is the 10mW of telemetry power, but I’d get this one to get better signal coverage across all orientations, not for breaking range records.
By far the cheapest officially supported option, but it’s pretty capable despite the price. Higher telemetry output power than the RP1 with a similarly nice antenna, but it’s a bit larger. Watch our for clones though, especially on AliExpress, as it’s possibly the most commonly cloned receiver out there, sadly.
Similar situation as what the XR1 is to the RP1. The SuperX Mono is also an LR1121-based receiver with the latest bells and whistles. Sadly, the antenna recesses didn’t carry over, kind of a shame.
Once again, similar to the RP4TD-M. But this time we have more telemetry power to play around with, at the same price. Better for long range telemetry downlink, but I’d trust RM hardware a little bit more… then again, they both passed review, they should both perform as expected
When planning out this list, I didn’t think I’d include any GemX receivers since they mostly hang around $40. I was pleasantly surprised when I saw this one barely more expensive than the SuperD. Probably overkill for a regular 5” build, but it can be useful in congested RF environments
Largely similar to the BetaFPV ELRS Nano, but Speedybee’s offering can often be found for basically the same price, with a much lower risk of clones popping up… or at least I haven’t seen any so far.
Pre-Built
Even though this guide is mostly focused on building a drone yourself, sometimes a pre-built one just makes more sense. Many of these are based on frames and other parts mentioned in this guide, they may sometimes be cheaper than buying everything separately!
All of these are analog, with ELRS receivers. But they should all have DJI O4 options too.
The new Vapor series from GEPRC has quickly replaced the older Nazguls, as they became something I’d no longer want to recommend. The Vapors have good specs, a whole bunch of options for analog/digital and X/DC geometry, and even 6” variants, all without much clutter.
BNFs from AxisFlying were (and to some degree still are) mostly aimed towards higher end markets. The SE series bring them down to a reasonable price, yet still with some nice comfort featues like an integrated XT60 connector, GPS installed and set up from the factory, and more!
The Bando 5 is a really interesting frame with its full metal body. It houses a more reasonable FC with the same powerful ESC, all in a pretty compact package. As the name suggests, it’s built to be tougher for bando flying, hopefully being better for harder abuse.